by Lonely Planet author Leif Pettersen

Chisinau

Accommodations in Chisinau Wine Tours Moldova

In Chisinau (‘kish-i-now’ in Moldovan, ‘kish-i-nyov’ in Russian) is all together fascinating and a little petrifying. Fleets of BMWs and Mercedes dominate traffic, seemingly outnumbering the formerly dominant Lada, while fashionably dressed youth strut down boutique-lined avenues and dine in fancy restaurants. So, how did this excessive wealth find its way to the capital of Europe’s poorest country? No really, I'm asking you, how'd that happen?

Moreover, the conspicuously bold acts committed by individuals who are clearly above the law and shamelessly conduct themselves as such can be a tad preoccupying for the newly arrived visitor. This dodginess aside, Chisinau is a vibrant, good-natured city, filled with people with the will to party with the best of them.

Parts of Chisinau are the usual ex-soviet concrete disasters, but if you wander just a few blocks from the center, you find yourself in lush foliage, wide avenues, parks and, further out, pleasant lakes.

The city is truly funky. The current Communist government, who reacquired the reigns in 2001, hasn’t put a damper on the nightlife, which swings until the morning hours, while the restaurant scene is implausibly robust. To say nothing of the wine…

Although, the main attraction here is just absorbing this all together strange city, the city has a few decent museums to break up all the carousing; National Archaeology and History Museum and a small open-air military exhibition.

The city celebrates the increasingly popular Wine Festival, during the first weeks of October when any nationality is invited in, visa-free, for stays of up to 10 days.

The city’s location and the small size of Moldova itself, makes it an excellent base for day (or several-day) excursions to other parts of Moldova. It’s possible to drive just about anywhere in the republic, and back, in a single day.

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