by Lonely Planet author Leif Pettersen

Sfantu Gheorghe (Danube Delta)

Accommodations in Sfantu Gheorghe Ferries to Sfantu Gheorghe Danube Delta Northern Dobrogea

The ferry continues downstream from Murighiol, past Ivancea - one of the delta’s largest geese-nesting areas - to the fishing village Sfantu Gheorghe (sfant-u gore-gay), population 1,000.

First recorded in the mid-14th century by Visconti, one of my travel writing predecessors from Genoa, Italy, this village is known for it traditional cooking; but the black caviar for which the village is famed (it's the only place in the delta where sturgeon are caught) is a delicacy reserved for religious feasts.

Each August, the village hosts what is probably the world’s most remote film festival. Check www.delta-resort.ro for info.

There are no tourist sights here; the town is the tourist site, hombre. Highlights include immersion in a traditional fishing village, pantomiming conversations with curious locals, listening to the frogs irritate the dogs at night and the 30-minute hike to the beach, where the Danube surges into the Black Sea.

There are no beach services, but an increase in visitors in recent years means that it's only a matter of time before some killjoy entrepreneur starts renting beach chairs. For now there's just stretches of fine sand with city-stunned Romanians and tourists wandering around, dazzled by the silence.

From the dock, walk past the main square, then head right, eastward. Alternately hop on the tractor or one of the private cars that shuttles people to the beach throughout the day.

Also of note is the architecture of the well-tended homes here, most of which have Byzantine-influenced porches under ornamental arches.

The only note of disharmony here is another crime against nature perpetrated again by Ceausescu; north of Sfantu Gheorghe’s beach stands a gigantic metal aeolian windmill anecdotally said to the biggest of its kind on the planet (Ceausescu would settle for no less). However, in addition to being butt-ugly, in classic Ceausescu fashion, the thing worked for about two months before slowly recycling itself (i.e. rusting).

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