by Lonely Planet author Leif Pettersen

Târgu Neamt

Moldavia Painted Monasteries

Târgu Neamt (literally, German Market Town) is little more than a dusty, god-awful town that will make you quicken your step just for the attraction of getting the hell out of there. The only reasons to come here are to visit the impressive ruins of a 14th-century citadel and stock up before heading to the Neamt, Agapia and Varatec Monasteries.

Neamt Citadel (Cetatea Neamtului) considered Moldavia’s finest fortress, is perched just high enough above town to make you wish there was a chairlift. This ancient place is good for a hour's worth of poking around and provides excellent photo ops. It was built by Petru I Musat in 1359 and was attacked repeatedly: by Hungarians in 1395, by Turks in 1476 and finally conquered by Polish forces in 1691, which explains its semi-ruined state.

To get there, follow signs for ‘Cetatea Neamtului’ along B-dul Stefan cel Mare. You must park your car at the foot of the citadel and take the calf-blasting, but pleasant hike up the hill.

If for whatever reason you choose to spend the night in Târgu Neamt, there's only two decent options:

Casa Arcasului (Tel. +40 (0) 233 790 699; address Str Cetatii 40; singles/doubles/triples 19.80/22.70/25.50 euros) is a bright hotel/restaurant with a fantastic location at the foot of the citadel. Rooms are simple, but decent, equipped with cable TV, comfortable beds and small shower-toilet hybrids. The adjoining Romanian restaurant has live music nightly.

Doina (Tel. +40 (0) 233 790 270; address Str. Mihail Kogalniceanu, 6-8; doubles 28.30 euros) is closer to the bus station, but is otherwise unremarkable. Each of the tired, but comfortable rooms has a balcony, mini-bar, and cable TV. Breakfast is not included. The attached restaurant has a nice summer terrace.

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