by Lonely Planet author Leif Pettersen

Transdniestr 'visa regulations'

Visa? What visa? This is Transdniestr, baby! You need a visa like you need a rocket launcher! (Seriously, do you need a rocket launcher? Cuz, I know a guy.)

That said, there are a few pertinent details:

First and foremost, you will need a letter of invitation to enter Transdniestr, written by a local. If you're not already connected in some way, you can easily arrange this through Your Friends in Moldova. Transdniestr officials have recently reiterated that tourists are officially not welcome in the region. That said, border guards ultimately have a vested financial interest (bribes) in letting you through - budget around $20-30 for this excitement (possibly less if you're generous with your cigarettes), coming and going, depending on how dodgy you look or how big your camera bag is - depending on what the guard's mood is, cameras are either a non-issue or patently illegal and punishable by fines and/or confiscation of your film/memory card (though the latter is extreme). You're equally as likely to be harrassed and/or 'fined' by the Moldovan guards for any number of obscure and spontaneous 'laws' they remember when you pass through.

If you enter Transdniestr from Ukraine before entering Moldova, keep two things in mind; you might have to purchase a 'visitor's pass' for TransD at the border, like always, but more importantly, when leaving Transdniestr to enter Moldova proper make sure your passport gets a properly dated Moldovan entry stamp or there'll be trouble when you try to leave Moldova - unless you go back out via TransD, then who cares? No really, get that stamp. Don't make me say 'I told ya so'. Oh yeah, you'll also probably have to pay a small fine to the Moldovan guards for this unorthodox entry (if the Transdniestran guards haven't already cleaned you out).

Coming from the other direction is where the real fun happens. Where, historically, you'd barely get a second glace when entering TransD from Ukraine (the new 'trade blockade' situation has probably squashed that warm-fuzzy atmosphere), when entering from Moldova be ready to go through the veritable spanking machine. Checkpoints galore and none of them are quick or easy, particularly if you're in a private car, though not much less intense if you're sneaking through on a maxitaxi.

During my last (and only) pass through the area, rising political and economic turmoil was making a day trip into Transdniestr more hair-raising than it's been in years. The social ostracism of foreigners in Tiraspol notwithstanding, the border is downright dodgy.

The source of the trouble is a very complex political predicament, the latest chapter in a four-way antagonizing theatre of one-upmanship between the Ukraine, Russia, Moldova and Transdniestr. Barring a sudden flash of diplomatic magic, the situation is expected to get far worse before it gets better.

The upshot is the border can still be amusingly memorable (if you're not soiling yourself, like I was). Bobbing and weaving around invented infractions and creative interpretations of the law until you surrender to some kind of fine is pretty standard for foreigners. Seemingly, the earlier you break down and give them some cash, the cheaper the experience will be. However, sometimes the guards like to start the bidding high and you have to negotiate your way down to a more reasonable fine. If you don't speak Russian or are not in the company of a Russian speaker, this can become very drawn out and difficult. Equally, the guards may just give up and wave you through if it's near enough to their smoke break. There's just no preparing for this moment. Improv skills and having a gorgeous translator is what got me through relatively unscathed. (I highly recommend the gorgeous translator part, but the way.)

Entry permits are still (officially) $1-5 depending on your nationality, available at the border no matter what the guys on duty playfully tell you.

If you stay under 24 hours, you needn't register with the authorities and if you enter with a Moldovan national, you can be listed on their entry permit (as several names can be inscribed on one) for a few pennies.

If you're staying for over 24 hours, you'll need to register with the OVIR (address: ul. Kotovskogo No. 2A; hours 9am-5pm Mon-Fri). Enter through the ominous, rusting prison-like gate and inquire at the hidden, new white building with the red roof.

At night or on weekends, register at Tiraspol Militia office (address: Roza Luxemburg 66; open 24 hours a day), though you'll probably be asked to follow up at the OVIR on the next business day. The registration fee is about $0.60.

Some hotels won't even talk room availability with you until you've registered. Some high-end hotels will register you automatically, but unless you're there as Smirnov's guest, you probably won't be staying at these establishments.

Agonizing over travel insurance? Maybe I can help...

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