Romania and Moldova Travel Guide
Romania and Moldova Travel Guide
by Lonely Planet author Leif
Pettersen |
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| ©Romania
and Moldova Travel Guide 2008 Updated September 10, 2008 |
Viseu de Sus Viseu de Sus is the gateway to the wonders of the Vaser Valley. The area was first chronicled in 1363, and is developing into a nudge-nudge open secret for travelers and nature-lovers. Logging is the town’s traditional industry - and it’s this tradition which is the catalyst for its newest industry: tourism. The wooded mountains and picturesque Viseu Valley (Valea Viseu) are the main attractions here, in addition to the sweet alpine air. A railway line links Rona de Jos in the north (19km southeast of Sighetu Marmatiei) to Borsa in the south, making it more accessible for travelers without private transport. Or hike it; starting at the twin villages of Rona de Jos and Rona de Sus, and continuing south through the unremarkable villages of Petrova and Leordina, until you eventually come to Viseu de Sus. Viseu de Sus’s unique narrow-gauge railway winds up and into the Vaser Valley. Since its construction in 1925, the narrow-gauge railway has been used to carry wood down the mountains. Steam engines were originally used, but now the job’s done mostly by diesel engines. There are still four steam engines making the arduous climb for the sake of tourist excitement. Lumberjacks are ferried by train each morning 42km up the valley to the logging camp at Comanu, close to the Ukrainian border. The infrastructure for tourists to take the trip increases each year, but is still weak by western standards. The journey snakes through forests filled with elusive wolves and lynx. Once up in the hills, a new economy takes over; the lumberjacks barter cigarettes and vodka for freshly made cheese from the hilltop shepherds. The cabanas at the top are now reserved for workers, but it’s possible to pitch a tent 32km away at the camping grounds of Faina or Valea Babii (6km further on). From Faina there’s a well-marked hiking trail but it should only be undertaken in summer. Detailed maps of the area are difficult to obtain. Be wary not to stray near the Ukrainian border as border police are armed. At Novat there’s an artists’ camp where you’ll find sculptors hard at work during the day and drinking and debating at night. A tourist-only train make the trip daily at 8.30am and begins its homeward journey at about 5pm, except Sundays and holidays. Tickets cost eight euros and are bought at the station before boarding the train. To get to the train station from the center of Viseu de Sus, turn left opposite Hotel Brad, on the corner of Str 22 Decembrie and Str Iuliu Maniu, continue along Str Carpati for 2km and the station is on the left. The Viseu de Sus tourist information center (Tel. +40 (0) 262 352 285; address Str Libertatii 1; hours 9am-6pm Mon-Fri), is situated in the library and seems to open and close at whim, despite posted hours. When reachable, they sell maps of the region, arrange accommodation and book steam train tours. The supply of hiking maps is frustratingly low, but you’ll find one good map of the valley’s trails here. Hotel Brad Hotel Gabriela |